Imperial treasures

In the Hofburg complex I visited four sections: the Albertina, the Imperial Treasury, the Spanish Riding School and the Sisi gallery which also included the Imperial Silver Collection.

The Imperial Treasury was amazing. I saw more pearls in two hours than I have seen in my entire life. Small pearls richly decorating crowns, jewellery and clothing. Yet again, the audio guide was wonderful in explaining the context for the magnificent exhibits. Each of the Emperors had their own crown commissioned, and the different crowns were indicative of what focus that Emperor had. Propaganda again. I'd be interested to go back and research the British ones to see if they were created in a similar way. I don't remember that being a feature except for the Coronation Cloak.
There was a whole section on the Coronation regalia for the Holy Roman Emperor, and lots of information on how the Emperor was voted in. Various parts linked back to information from the Czech Republic in terms of the Estates, who held voting rights. My grasp of European History is still very basic but I am starting to make connections.
There was another whole section on Napoleon, which I didn't understand until I heard that he had married a Hapsburg daughter. A smart political move on his part, and their's, at least while he was on the up.
The final section was devoted to the Order of the Golden Fleece, which I first heard about with Maximilian. I saw regalia, and amazing copes worn by the priests of the Order.

One thing which I have kept encountering, but still haven't fully connected, is the Protestant/Catholic issue. In the Czech Republic there was a famous battle, White Mountain, where the 'home grown' Protestants, the Hussites were defeated. The Habsburgs were staunch Catholics and insisted that the people in their dominions be Catholic, causing many Protestants to flee. The link between the Austria/Hungary Empire and its domination of the Czechs is one reason why many in the Czech Republic hate Catholicism. All the architecture is linked too, because the Baroque is connected with the counter reformation.

Of course the Jewish issue keeps coming up as well. Most of the Jews were thrown out of Vienna in 1420 and the remainder slaughtered in 1421. Coincidentally the Emperor owed them lots of money. They were allowed back in later, but continued to have a chequered history, and in Judenplatz I saw an interesting memorial to the thousands of Austrian Jews killed in World War II which was unveiled in 1990.

The Sisi exhibition was interesting in a similar way to the Maximilian one. Here was a significant figure in Austrian royalty who I knew nothing about. The particular focus of the exhibition was to undo the myths that grew after her death and particularly through films made in the 20th Century and to present the real person, both good and bad. What came over to me was a child/woman suddenly thrust into a life for which she was unprepared, betrothed and married at 15, with 3 children before she was 20, who was probably inherently mentally unstable but made even more so by circumstance. She showed all the signs of bulimia, was fixated on her weight and her appearance and was so anxious about being within the court that it made her physically ill. Throughout it all, I felt most sorry for her husband Franz Joseph who loved her passionately and allowed her the freedom to go wandering about Europe for most of her life. In an attempt to persuade her to stay in Vienna ha had her rooms decorated with a beautiful, quite exotic scene. I stood in those rooms and thought they were the most beautiful rooms I have seen on my travels.
I also felt sorry for her children who she basically ignored, except for the last who she originally smothered with affection, then ignored. The portrayal was honest but sympathetic.

Private tour in Vienna

My friend Rod put me in contact with Kathi, who lives in Vienna and works as a tourist guide, mainly with the cruise ships which travel up and down the Danube. She very generously offered to show me around Vienna, particularly some of the less well known parts. We had a brilliant time!! She soon realised that I loved churches so we checked out lots of those, we wandered into quiet courtyards, down to the Danube canal, through the Jewish quarter, and the old Roman section and into the Hofburg Palace complex. As we walked we talked about the Maximilian exhibition which she had seen 3 times, other history of the city and country, changes to the city as a result of war damage and the differences between Vienna and Salzburg. She also helped me find where my Mozart concert was going to be. When our feet got sore and her voice was threatening to give out, we stopped and enjoyed coffee/tea and cake. For Kathi the day was a chance to practise her English beyond the normal tour spiel, and to pick up a few new expressions.  Eg 'flogging something to the tourists', in reference to the Sound of Music tours. For me, it was a wonderful opportunity to see a city through the eyes of a local, be able to ask anything and I felt that I had been given a very special present.

Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor

Ok. I'll admit it. I'm addicted to museums and galleries. Especially when the Albertina is advertising Monet. I have also decided that a) Viennese galleries are expensive and b) the audio guide is always worth the extra money.
Ironically, having lured me in with promises of Monet, there were only 2 of them, but I did learn about the differences between impressionism, Neo-impressionism, and Fauvism. I also wandered through the State apartments, and enjoyed some beautiful rooms. There were some Durer prints on the walls but I discovered they were facsimiles; the originals being too precious to display except under special conditions. The best exhibition though did contain some genuine Durer. It was focused on Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor and owner of a genuine Hapsburg nose. All paintings of him are in profile or 3/4 so the nose can be clearly seen! Before I went through the exhibition I knew nothing about Maximilian, little about the Hapsburgs and virtually nothing about the Holy Roman Empire. I'm certainly not an expert now,  but I can place all of them geographically and historically and I'm beginning to sort out the links between all the families and countries throughout Europe. I really like exhibitions which can take a person who has no background and engage them in the world of the exhibits.
I was going to suggest that you skip this paragraph if history is not your thing, but actually Maximilian would fit perfectly into the 21st century because he was all about carefully creating an identity for himself which would last for posterity. He had family trees created that linked him to King Arthur, Charlemagne and ancient Romans. His family were new to the position so he wanted to be seen as the natural successors. In his marriage he managed to acquire the Burgundy empire as well, and through marriage his heirs controlled the Spain kingdoms. He acquired items of wealth and drove his family nearly bankrupt. He wanted to be seen as a Chivalric knight, so he wrote two books about a knightly hero (himself thinly disguised), got leading artists to illustrate them, then had them published. He lived at a time when publishing was just getting off the ground and he used it for political propaganda. He wanted to create a huge triumphal arch, like the Romans, but couldn't afford it, so he got Durer to design one using woodcuts, then had copies printed off and sent to the important cities so each would have one. It was the size of a wall in one of our houses, not a small print. Actually it reminded me, in its purpose, of all those pictures of Queen Elizabeth II in her Coronation robes which were popular in Council buildings and other places from the 50s. The most extraordinary propaganda though, was a massive frieze depicting a triumphal march. They only have half of it still and that was spread along the wall, the whole thing was 54 metres long The march never happened, but that didn't stop Maximilian having the image of it created. There were heralds, horsemen bearing banners from every region, men carrying huge busts of all of his famous ancestors, including King Arthur, soldiers, military equipment, which was apparently correctly pictured, carts carrying liturgical treasure (which was not real, but gave the impression of vast wealth), all the noblemen bearing their coats of arms and a huge carriage carrying Maximilian, his mother (who had died many years before!), his two wives (one had died), his two children and their partners and his grandchildren. Behind all of this were Indians (I'm not sure where they fitted in) and then the common people in a bit of a ragtag at the end. He planned it as a frieze to go around public buildings.
For all of that he was apparently a very good leader, an excellent horseman and soldier, and spent much of his time riding around fighting battles,  preventing the Turks from conquering the country. He wanted to embody the idea of the Chivalrous knight, and competed in Tourneys and other knightly activities. They also had one of his suits of armour on display - a 'for show' one, not something he would have fought in.
The whole exhibition was fascinating.

New Year's Eve

New Year's Eve, Vienna style, or as they call it Silvester.

Visiting St. Stephen's earlier in the afternoon I came upon a stage with a guy blasting out  Nessun Dorma! It was a sound check for later in the night. And there was quite a crowd gathered to hear snippets from the artists. I was convinced enough to make that my place of choice later in the night.

I'm staying in a shared apartment just out of the city. Five minutes walk takes me to a tram which goes straight into the city centre then around it in a loop. The centre is quite confusing because it is based around a circle, but for New Year's Eve it didn't matter because every road had something happening. Walking down one of the main pedestrian strips, I stopped to buy glüwein in a mug (souvenir) and sit to listen to some DJ music and watch the passersby. There were some who danced along, one guy who just propped and jived along. There seemed to be people from 2 to 82 heading somewhere or anywhere.

I was surprised that it all started up officially at 2pm but of course it is dark at 4 pm. It was going to be a long night.

One thing caught my eye. There were lots of dogs but many of them were being carried! In bags, slings even a pram. I was surprised to see them given that fireworks were already going off randomly.

There were the usual array of silly hats, probably good to find your partner in the crowd.
Lots of 80s music got the crowd moving: Blame it on the boogie, We are family. Lots of toddlers were being swung around, having a great time.
I arrived back in St. Stephen's square to see on the screen a choir and orchestra. It turned out to be part of a church service, in St. Stephens? It was in German but I recognised the reading. There is a time for all things. Ecclesiastes.

I felt that the ceremony I missed at Christmas had come upon me unawares at New Year.
As the sky gradually deepened the spire of the church seemed to glow.
When he started on his sermon I retreated to a nearby cafe where I felt some food would help me through the night of glüwein drinking.
How could I resist a boar kotolette? It was mainly because the only wiener schnitzel  on offer was turkey! The second glüwein suddenly hit me like a hammer and I was glad to be sitting down.
After eating I returned to the square where the service was over and the entertainment had started with a guy encouraging the audience to dance. It was like we have in the park in summer but with lots of waltzing of course. I chose to dance with Beatrice, and while I was doing it a young guy near me offered me a dance. He and his girlfriend, a Serbian couple who had come across to Vienna just for NYE had a long chat with me about their studies, both doing medicine, life for students and other things. When the classical singers appeared on stage, they wandered off in search of music more their style.

It was now about 5pm and the concert was starting. The stage held about 10 musicians and a rotating collection of about 8 singers came out. It was also broadcast on a big screen just next to the stage. They sang a variety of songs: traditional Austrian/German where the crowd sang along or danced, musical theatre, especially My Fair Lady, sung part in English, part in German, and some light opera. Then a military band came out. I listened to a couple of pieces, then decided I needed to sit down somewhere and wanders back up the street. It was about 7:30 by then, and I was wondering if I would make it to midnight.
I didn't. Not in the city anyway. Having returned for more singing, I made it though to 10pm but when the band came on stage again, I gave in to tired legs and cold feet and headed home. Not that I slept. The fireworks, which had been spasmodic all night, became constant by 11:15 and remained that way until after 12:30. I have to admit that I find fireworks a waste of money. I'd rather the money be spent on making the New Year a little better for the homeless. Also, there were lots of people wandering the streets letting them off. I don't know if they are legal or not, but fireworks in the hands of drunk teenagers is asking for problems. Don't I sound old and grumpy!!

Despite not making it through to midnight, I loved the event. The crowds were friendly, everyone seemed out to enjoy themselves, I saw no really obnoxious drunks and felt perfectly safe returning home alone on public transport.

Scenes from Salzburg

The fortress as seen from further along the hill.

View to the mountains. Very Austrian. I can hear you all singing it ...

View down into the city from the fortress

In the fortress they had a marionette display. Continuing my Magic Flute theme ....Papageno

Papagena

Mozart with his mother and father

Coming up the horse tunnel into the fortress. Double (not so glazed ) windows?

Turn it sideways. It's the arm rest of a bench. The carvings are gorgeous.

Detail from a beautiful door

They love displaying torture equipment. This one definitely needs a comfy cushion.

I can't work out where this goes. Perhaps it's a violinist's torture.