I've fallen in love with York. As I climbed on to the walls at Micklegate and looked towards the Minster, I knew I was going to have a wonderful day. The sun was shining in a clear blue sky, which certainly helped the atmosphere. I'm sure the residents were relieved as well since the two rivers which meet at York, the Ouse and Foss, are still in flood, creating chaos for the businesses lining the river which are inundated.
I walked around the walls to the bridge, and saw the Ouse. Well named, as it was oozing over the road, and into the park. A beautiful old building used as a coffee shop was sadly marooned in the middle of the swirling brown river, and the sign for the boat cruises was barely visible.
Moving on, I soon came to the beautiful Minster, which is technically a Cathedral of St Peter, but nobody calls it by its full name. My tour guide was a delightfully eccentric lady who had been doing the tours forever, but had apparently been told off in the recent 'retraining' for going overtime. And she did on our tour as well, but it was a wonderful tour filled with little anecdotes and personal opinions about various characters. The church is spectacular, as all of these cathedrals are, and each cathedral I have seen has its own special feature. In the Minster there were several. The Chapter House, an octagonal room off the North transept, has a wonderful set of carvings which are over 700 years old. There are all sorts of interesting heads, some with a finger in their mouth or pulling faces, and some wonderful animals. The South Transept was damaged by a fire, and when the roof was restored they had a competition involving the program Blue Peter. Viewers were invited to submit a design for the bosses where the beams cross. The winners included an image of Neil Armstrong on the moon. It reminded me of the astronaut the stonemason placed on the Salamanca Cathedral. Apparently one of the theories for the fire (which was probably an electrical fault caused by a lightning strike) was God's retaliation for using the Minster to induct a Bishop of Durham who didn't believe in the Virgin birth or the Resurrection.
Making my way along High Petergate (I love the names of the streets), I passed out through the wall by another gate and visited the local museum, which had a lovely Roman display. The city is full of museums so I had to pace myself!
The old city is full of interesting lanes and passageways, called snickerways. It also has a collection of cat sculptures, placed on the walls or roofs of buildings and there is a guide map to locate them. I managed to find a few, but they were hard to photograph. The most famous street is the Shambles, where the buildings tilt at odd angles, and the shops are extraordinarily small. It was originally a street of butchers, but now it's touristy. Another famous street is Whip Ma Whop Ma Gate, the shortest street in York, about 35 metres long. It was originally Whitnourwhatnourgate, meaning 'neither one thing nor another' but changed after it became a site of floggings and pillory.
The squares were filled with market stalls, for Christmas. I'm really enjoying the street decorations. When the sun sets before 4pm there is plenty of opportunity to enjoy the lights.
I meandered through to the other end of the walled part where Clifford's tower stands high on a hill. Not much to see inside, but fantastic views of the city from the top. Next to it is the Castle museum, which I saved for the next day.
By this time it was after 3pm and time for a break. David had recommended Betty's Tea Rooms, which I had passed on my meanderings. A very popular location, but worth the short wait for a table. I couldn't resist the mince pies, brandy butter and mulled wine.
That night I watched a wonderful new program on BBC4, which I hope will come out to Australia. It's called The Dark Ages - An Age of Light.
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00zbtmp
So much more interesting than I'm a Celebrity, get me out of here.