I've been wanting to visit Brighton since I was about 16 and started reading Georgette Heyer regency books. Historical fiction is a wonderful way of absorbing history and Heyer was well known for her detailed and accurate renditions.
So I needed to promenade on the beach front, visit the Pavilion and Old Steine and generally get in a Regency mood. I am staying in an Air BnB which is right on the beachfront at Hove. I can see the sunset over the ocean, and wake up to early morning sunshine on the famous Brighton beach boxes. There are buses every 4-5 minutes which take me into Central Brighton. I was confused about the Brighton/Hove distinction. I assumed that Hove has attached itself to Brighton, but I am informed that residents of Hove consider themselves to be far superior. 'I live in Hove, actually.' I learnt this from an historian who took me on a guided tour around the old part - Brighton past and present. It was a one one, which was great because I could ask him questions specific to my interests. The modern history was particularly interesting because I knew much of the Regency time already, although it was great to see the actual locations. Brighton only became a city 12 years ago when it combined with Hove. It is also one of the 3 main gay centres: London and Manchester being the others. A huge proportion of its residents were not born there, they visited, fell in love with it and stayed. It's also a popular location for hens and stags weekends. Also many of the residents travel an hour by train into London to work. Property prices are second only to London and it's an expensive place to live generally. It grew as a seaside resort in the late 1700s when a doctor recommended bathing and drinking seawater as a cure for various ailments. Before that it was a barely surviving fishing village. When the Prince of Wales, later to become the Regent, decided to stay in what had been a farmhouse there, he made it popular. The farmhouse grew to become the Marine Pavilion and later the extravagant oriental Royal Pavilion it is still today. We nearly didn't have it though. Queen Victoria hated it and it was definitely a playboy's palace, not a place for someone with 9 children. She was going to have it knocked down but was persuaded to sell it to the Brighton council for a fraction of what it cost Prinny to have it built. She did keep most of the furnishings though, and some of those are now 'graciously on loan from Her Majesty' back in situ.
I'd seen pictures of the outside and read about the inside, so it wasn't overwhelming, but I thought it was wonderfully exotic and most of the rooms have charm and grace. I could imagine it very hot, filled with the haut ton, all admiring each others' dresses and gossiping about the latest scandal while hoping that their young debutante wouldn't be invited to see Prinny's private rooms. It was a palace for entertaining and the rooms worked well for that, flowing into each other so that hundreds could be accommodated. They have gone into enormous detail in their restorations, including having carpets and wallpapers made to specific patterns. The analysis of the colours used on the walls, and how they were created was fascinating. You can't take photos inside but the website
http://www.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/RoyalPavilion/whattosee/Pages/home.aspx
Has a few pictures and some great background information. I broke my rule on not creating luggage weight and bought the book. I'll post it back with some other things.
I had to have tea in the teas rooms there on the first floor. In fact I indulged in sandwiches, scones, tea and a glass of bubbly. I sat by the window looking out on to the gardens imagining Regency young ladies, overheated from the rooms and the exertion of dancing, being lured out there to cool down by handsome men with wicked ideas in their heads!What I actually saw were a couple of squirrels cavorting around and a very large seagull on the balcony rail.
There are some lovely lanes, called The Lanes, which meander through the old part, where the fishing cottages used to be. These days they are filled with jewellery shops and overpriced cafes. Comparing some of the jewellery to Australian stores, I think they are overpriced as well. Another set of Lanes, further north, have the Bohemian market sewn up. Vintage everything, a bit of punk and goth and lots of off beat stores. I saw an amazing shoe store. Pictures will follow!!
So I needed to promenade on the beach front, visit the Pavilion and Old Steine and generally get in a Regency mood. I am staying in an Air BnB which is right on the beachfront at Hove. I can see the sunset over the ocean, and wake up to early morning sunshine on the famous Brighton beach boxes. There are buses every 4-5 minutes which take me into Central Brighton. I was confused about the Brighton/Hove distinction. I assumed that Hove has attached itself to Brighton, but I am informed that residents of Hove consider themselves to be far superior. 'I live in Hove, actually.' I learnt this from an historian who took me on a guided tour around the old part - Brighton past and present. It was a one one, which was great because I could ask him questions specific to my interests. The modern history was particularly interesting because I knew much of the Regency time already, although it was great to see the actual locations. Brighton only became a city 12 years ago when it combined with Hove. It is also one of the 3 main gay centres: London and Manchester being the others. A huge proportion of its residents were not born there, they visited, fell in love with it and stayed. It's also a popular location for hens and stags weekends. Also many of the residents travel an hour by train into London to work. Property prices are second only to London and it's an expensive place to live generally. It grew as a seaside resort in the late 1700s when a doctor recommended bathing and drinking seawater as a cure for various ailments. Before that it was a barely surviving fishing village. When the Prince of Wales, later to become the Regent, decided to stay in what had been a farmhouse there, he made it popular. The farmhouse grew to become the Marine Pavilion and later the extravagant oriental Royal Pavilion it is still today. We nearly didn't have it though. Queen Victoria hated it and it was definitely a playboy's palace, not a place for someone with 9 children. She was going to have it knocked down but was persuaded to sell it to the Brighton council for a fraction of what it cost Prinny to have it built. She did keep most of the furnishings though, and some of those are now 'graciously on loan from Her Majesty' back in situ.
I'd seen pictures of the outside and read about the inside, so it wasn't overwhelming, but I thought it was wonderfully exotic and most of the rooms have charm and grace. I could imagine it very hot, filled with the haut ton, all admiring each others' dresses and gossiping about the latest scandal while hoping that their young debutante wouldn't be invited to see Prinny's private rooms. It was a palace for entertaining and the rooms worked well for that, flowing into each other so that hundreds could be accommodated. They have gone into enormous detail in their restorations, including having carpets and wallpapers made to specific patterns. The analysis of the colours used on the walls, and how they were created was fascinating. You can't take photos inside but the website
http://www.brighton-hove-rpml.org.uk/RoyalPavilion/whattosee/Pages/home.aspx
Has a few pictures and some great background information. I broke my rule on not creating luggage weight and bought the book. I'll post it back with some other things.
I had to have tea in the teas rooms there on the first floor. In fact I indulged in sandwiches, scones, tea and a glass of bubbly. I sat by the window looking out on to the gardens imagining Regency young ladies, overheated from the rooms and the exertion of dancing, being lured out there to cool down by handsome men with wicked ideas in their heads!What I actually saw were a couple of squirrels cavorting around and a very large seagull on the balcony rail.
There are some lovely lanes, called The Lanes, which meander through the old part, where the fishing cottages used to be. These days they are filled with jewellery shops and overpriced cafes. Comparing some of the jewellery to Australian stores, I think they are overpriced as well. Another set of Lanes, further north, have the Bohemian market sewn up. Vintage everything, a bit of punk and goth and lots of off beat stores. I saw an amazing shoe store. Pictures will follow!!
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