As I walked along the beachfront on the last walking day I saw a familiar symbol.
But what was the Camino scallop shell doing at Port de la Selva? I was about to embark on a short section of yet another Camino route which started at Port de la Selva and went up the mountain to the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes.
The road zigzagged up the mountain. The track cut off all the bends by going virtually straight up! Partway up I went past a Neolithic shelter made from stone slabs. That area has a number of them scattered about.
The monastery had been around since at least 878 AD, and had its best times in the 11th and 12th century but was deserted by 1792 and fell into disrepair. It had been 'restored' more recently, except that there are absolutely no religious symbols in it at all - no statues, carvings, anything! Some of the original pieces are in museums, others just disappeared. I guess they may have taken some when they abandoned it as well. So it was weird standing in a church which was totally blank.
On top of the hill was an old fortress dating back to about the same time. It was definitely a ruin, but was interesting to wander through and had brilliant views over the valleys. No one would have snuck up on them.
The walk continued on past a little church of Saint Helene which had also been restored, and on around the mountain. I left the Camino trail further along as my track wound me back around the other side of the mountain and down into a town nestled partway up the valley. As I came off the mountain I walked through a grove of chestnuts - the ground was littered with the husks and nuts.
As I entered the town I could smell food, and I was hungry, so I went straight in (on to a terrace) to eat. Lunch was shared with a lovely cat who sat (mostly) patiently by my side, and enjoyed the salmon filling of the choux pastry starter, the scallops in a beautiful red wine vinaigrette, and the salmon, exquisitely cooked in a lemon reduction.
The town was quite different in character. Not much of an old section, but the bit that was had large courtyards behind big walls. There were a lots of new, very nice looking houses - an unusual site in Spain where most people live in apartments. It seemed like there was a lot of money there, but I don't know what the people would be doing for work.
But what was the Camino scallop shell doing at Port de la Selva? I was about to embark on a short section of yet another Camino route which started at Port de la Selva and went up the mountain to the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes.
The road zigzagged up the mountain. The track cut off all the bends by going virtually straight up! Partway up I went past a Neolithic shelter made from stone slabs. That area has a number of them scattered about.
The monastery had been around since at least 878 AD, and had its best times in the 11th and 12th century but was deserted by 1792 and fell into disrepair. It had been 'restored' more recently, except that there are absolutely no religious symbols in it at all - no statues, carvings, anything! Some of the original pieces are in museums, others just disappeared. I guess they may have taken some when they abandoned it as well. So it was weird standing in a church which was totally blank.
On top of the hill was an old fortress dating back to about the same time. It was definitely a ruin, but was interesting to wander through and had brilliant views over the valleys. No one would have snuck up on them.
The walk continued on past a little church of Saint Helene which had also been restored, and on around the mountain. I left the Camino trail further along as my track wound me back around the other side of the mountain and down into a town nestled partway up the valley. As I came off the mountain I walked through a grove of chestnuts - the ground was littered with the husks and nuts.
As I entered the town I could smell food, and I was hungry, so I went straight in (on to a terrace) to eat. Lunch was shared with a lovely cat who sat (mostly) patiently by my side, and enjoyed the salmon filling of the choux pastry starter, the scallops in a beautiful red wine vinaigrette, and the salmon, exquisitely cooked in a lemon reduction.
The town was quite different in character. Not much of an old section, but the bit that was had large courtyards behind big walls. There were a lots of new, very nice looking houses - an unusual site in Spain where most people live in apartments. It seemed like there was a lot of money there, but I don't know what the people would be doing for work.
The next morning I was picked up early to catch a train to Barcelona. As Steve (who is from the UK) drove me in he told me about the quirks of trying to run a business directed at English speakers in a Catalan area where they insist that all communication (website, brochures etc) must also be in Catalan. It's very similar to the situation in Quebec. There's a big push again for independence from Spain. Apparently Catalunya (which includes Barcelona) contributes significantly to Spain's economy but doesn't feel that it gets a reasonably share back. Familiar issues.
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