Sunday was a scheduled rest day, at Cadaqués, a perfect place to spend a lazy day. Dali was its most famous resident, although technically he lived across the headland at Portllaget. The 'house' is open for viewing - technically it is 7 fisherman's cottages that he gradually connected into one home through a series of steps and passages. They only allow a small number (8?) through at any one time in 10 or 20 minutes time blocks and you must book before. Apparently in the summer you have to book months in advance, but I had plenty of options when I booked several days ago. Yay for off season.
The house was fascinating because all of the furniture was very low. Gala, his partner, inspiration and finally wife, was very short: about 4 ft 3in I think, so everything was designed for her comfort. In a courtyard there was a section of wall cut so that she could watch the bay, at her height. The house had two distinct personalities: Dali had a collection of stuffed animals and birds, and thousands of books as well as his art; Gala collected little knicks-knacks and there were cabinets filled with them in every room. She also collected yellow everlasting daisies and put them in many of the rooms. They still do this each year, replacing the previous ones so they don't get too dusty. Dali loved to play with optical illusions so there were mirrors in unexpected places. In one room a mirror had been placed so that Dali could see the sunrise ' before anyone else'. He was an extraordinary egotist - the dressing room cupboard doors were plastered with photos of himself, often with Gala, from various meetings with dignitaries, magazine articles etc. but he was obviously a very intelligent and dedicated artist, although very eccentric. His studio had an huge wooden frame on one wall where he placed his canvas. He then sat in a low comfy chair to paint and the frame could be raised or lowered (through the floor to the lower storey) so that he didn't have to leave the chair! In another room there were mirrors and other devices and all his jewellery was created. In a small room down the stairs he kept all of his paints and other materials, meticulously ordered. I have always thought of Dali only in terms of his surrealistic images, but he was much more diverse than I expected. (apologies to the art people and others who already know this). He embraced technology, loved the effects of 3D and optical illusions, was fascinated by science, was intensely political at times and in later life returned to religion and created some profoundly moving images. He seemed to revel in being at the centre of things, but his soul was in this tiny fishing village. When Gala died he left, never to return.
I'd love to put images up, but I need to respect the copyright. You can take photos but not publish them without permission. I'm sure there are official images on the web though. Check out the 'whispering room', a circular relaxing room with low couches, covered in cushions and small toy animals. It works like St Paul's but on a much smaller scale: a whisper on one side can be heard clearly on the other.
I also took a boat cruise (in lieu of a 16km walk) which took me to the Cap de Crues and other bays around the area. Very relaxing!! The area is also a marine park, with lots of scuba diving, and just outside the zone, the fisherman collect their daily catch. I think I've mentioned before how much I'm loving the seafood. I have it every day :)
Late afternoon I retired to the deck outside the hotel to catch up on my posts with a glass of sangria ( yes! I am embracing my long service leave!) and re-met a lovely American couple whom I had chatted to briefly that morning. We ended up having a long conversation about psychology (his profession), mindfulness programs in schools (he was very impressed I knew about it, and used it), schooling and various other mutual interests. The hotels are much more impersonal than the hostels and it was lovely to have a conversation after a week of mostly solitude.
I can assure you that school itself, and the day-to-day of life are very far away from me. I'm happy to hear the gossip of course ;) and messages are very welcome.
One way I can tell is that at no time when I've looked at my watch, have I thought 'Period 3' or whatever. I'm only checking to see when I reach the next checkpoint on my route notes.
The house was fascinating because all of the furniture was very low. Gala, his partner, inspiration and finally wife, was very short: about 4 ft 3in I think, so everything was designed for her comfort. In a courtyard there was a section of wall cut so that she could watch the bay, at her height. The house had two distinct personalities: Dali had a collection of stuffed animals and birds, and thousands of books as well as his art; Gala collected little knicks-knacks and there were cabinets filled with them in every room. She also collected yellow everlasting daisies and put them in many of the rooms. They still do this each year, replacing the previous ones so they don't get too dusty. Dali loved to play with optical illusions so there were mirrors in unexpected places. In one room a mirror had been placed so that Dali could see the sunrise ' before anyone else'. He was an extraordinary egotist - the dressing room cupboard doors were plastered with photos of himself, often with Gala, from various meetings with dignitaries, magazine articles etc. but he was obviously a very intelligent and dedicated artist, although very eccentric. His studio had an huge wooden frame on one wall where he placed his canvas. He then sat in a low comfy chair to paint and the frame could be raised or lowered (through the floor to the lower storey) so that he didn't have to leave the chair! In another room there were mirrors and other devices and all his jewellery was created. In a small room down the stairs he kept all of his paints and other materials, meticulously ordered. I have always thought of Dali only in terms of his surrealistic images, but he was much more diverse than I expected. (apologies to the art people and others who already know this). He embraced technology, loved the effects of 3D and optical illusions, was fascinated by science, was intensely political at times and in later life returned to religion and created some profoundly moving images. He seemed to revel in being at the centre of things, but his soul was in this tiny fishing village. When Gala died he left, never to return.
I'd love to put images up, but I need to respect the copyright. You can take photos but not publish them without permission. I'm sure there are official images on the web though. Check out the 'whispering room', a circular relaxing room with low couches, covered in cushions and small toy animals. It works like St Paul's but on a much smaller scale: a whisper on one side can be heard clearly on the other.
I also took a boat cruise (in lieu of a 16km walk) which took me to the Cap de Crues and other bays around the area. Very relaxing!! The area is also a marine park, with lots of scuba diving, and just outside the zone, the fisherman collect their daily catch. I think I've mentioned before how much I'm loving the seafood. I have it every day :)
Late afternoon I retired to the deck outside the hotel to catch up on my posts with a glass of sangria ( yes! I am embracing my long service leave!) and re-met a lovely American couple whom I had chatted to briefly that morning. We ended up having a long conversation about psychology (his profession), mindfulness programs in schools (he was very impressed I knew about it, and used it), schooling and various other mutual interests. The hotels are much more impersonal than the hostels and it was lovely to have a conversation after a week of mostly solitude.
I can assure you that school itself, and the day-to-day of life are very far away from me. I'm happy to hear the gossip of course ;) and messages are very welcome.
One way I can tell is that at no time when I've looked at my watch, have I thought 'Period 3' or whatever. I'm only checking to see when I reach the next checkpoint on my route notes.
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