Monday, 17 December 2012

Copenhagen

This weekend I flew from London to Copenhagen and back so that I could attend a concert by Ars Nova Copenhagen entitled Christmas in the North, which was also being broadcast by the European Broadcasting Commission as part of their arts program. Why this concert? My 'extra son' and very talented tenor Paul Bentley is in the 12 person ensemble and it was my one chance to hear him sing over in Europe.
I flew across Saturday morning on a delayed flight due to heavy snowfall in Copenhagen delaying the incoming flight. On arrival Paul met me and after dumping my bag we wandered down to the very picturesque harbour where we enjoyed some gluwein at the small Christmas market. Paul had also organised for us to attend a concert that afternoon of a choir, soloist and flutes, harp and organ. The location was one of the many inner city churches and an interesting church because it had a model of a ship hanging in the nave. Apparently a number of the churches do this, connected to Copenhagen being a port city. All of the pews were boxed, and there was a balcony section as well, where some people chose to sit. It didn't seem a good choice though because they were often standing during the performance, leaning over for a better view. The concert was a lovely combination of classical pieces, some short songs and some hymns which the whole audience sang. Even me, a bit, but very quietly.  Listening to classic carols sung in Danish was fun.
On Sunday morning we again wandered the city, heading up to the famous Little Mermaid sculpture. Just before we reached it there was a military complex which is surrounded by a raised hill,w which is surrounded by canals. The land on which the complex sits is star shaped and people are able to walk through the complex or go up on to the embankment and walk around the edge. It's a favourite place for joggers, a bit like doing the tan track.  The view from the embankment was great, giving views across the harbour and city and down into the half frozen canals. The statue was everything I expected, and reminded me of the difference between Hans Christian Andersen's actual story and the Disneyfied version which completely changed the ending. It also seemed appropriate to be there in the week when a manuscript of one of his first stories has just been found.  As we wandered back into the city, we went through some gardens attached to a palace. The paths were very icy and slippery - it was easier to walk on the grass, still partly covered by snow. Approaching the palace, I could hear music. It turned out to be a military band with soldiers marching out of the complex, heading into town. I caught up with them later, in the square when the opera house is. There is obviously an official building there, which was guarded by soldiers with busbees standing outside little shelters. I felt like I had strayed back to London. With much ceremony the flag was taken into the building and the band started up again and the soldiers headed off. My other close miss with Royalty was when we were near the church where they were going to perform, but earlier when the service was on. A car pulled up, with a crown number plate and chauffeur. Perhaps Mary herself was in the service. We didn't linger in the cold to find out.
While Paul was rehearsing/doing sound checks I went back across to another church, circular with a magnificent dome. Paul tells me it has the best acoustics of all of them. It is also stunning to look at, and I was pleased that it enforced a rule 'this building is for quiet and meditation, no guiding inside' .
And so to the concert. The songs were organised under themes which were introduced via short readings and a short piece of plainsong. I knew many of the songs, and some were sung in English, but they had been arranged by the conductor and had some interesting twists and embellishments. It is interesting that a group of 12 can have more complex harmonies and often better volume than a group twice the size. I also appreciated the enjoyment the singers had in their own performance. You could see them watching and listening to each other, and enjoying the solos or parts where others were singing.
I was able to retreat into the hall afterwards to drink some gløgg (like gluwein but stronger!) and was made to feel very welcome.

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