Thursday, 6 December 2012

Dublin

From Newcastle I travelled down to London, but only stayed overnight before I hopped on a plane to Dublin. This was a later addition to the trip made possible by meeting Melanie and John at pueblo ingles. They suggested I visit, Melanie very kindly offered accommodation and both took time off work to show me around and entertain me. Unlike most nights when I have a quiet night, these nights were filled with pubs, guinness, wine and lots of fun.
Dublin is a lovely city, easy to navigate and with lots to see. The weather was kind, cold but sunny. Monday night was the official lighting of the Christmas tree at Trinity College. It was a bit of a fizzer to be honest, because the choir wasn't miked and it was virtually impossible to hear them over the chatter of the students in the quad. What had been entertaining, though, was watching the law students who had been graduating that afternoon. The guys were dressed in dinner suits, looking very smart. The girls were also dressed in finery, cocktail dresses mostly, very short, and with killer heels!  They looked frozen, couldn't walk on the cobbles stones, but were no doubt very pleased with themselves. ;)
While we waited for the lights ceremony, Melanie took me to ...., an old coffee shop. Lovely architecture, and the brownie was delicious and very filling. When we left Trinity, we went to Kelsoe's, another Dublin tradition, but this time, a pub. We scored a 'snug', a little room that women used to retreat to in the old days. It was great - small, comfy and private. I watched the professional bartender at work. John would just give a little sign to him, and he would take note and bring the order. But he wasn't one of these 'Serve them one at a time' types. He'd be taking note of numerous orders at once, and steadily pulling the Guinness at the same time. I was the awkward one: I tried a Guinness, but didn't like it much so I stuck with red wine, although I did have a taste of a whisky and ginger ale later in the night. Melanie wanted whisky and apple juice and the bartender came into the snug to explain why he couldn't possibly give that to her! They compromised with the ginger ale.
While we were there a noisy group all dressed in Christmas themed clothing arrived. This is a traditional Dublin thing: the twelve pubs of Christmas. Lairy clothes are de rigeur, preferably with flashing red noses or tinsel. They even have pop up shops selling the jumpers and other accessories. It did seem early to be doing the pub crawl, December 3, but I suspect the students will do a number of them in the next few weeks. The next night we came across an even larger, noisier group at a different pub. They all looked about 16.
Tuesday morning I accompanied Melanie to her work, which was via a tram ride, then a walk down one of the canals. I was very ignorant about Dublin; I didn't realise it had these lovely waterways. Actually I didn't know much at all, but at least I know a little more now.
We detoured slightly so I could go through the Georgian section. It was like stepping back into Bath with a lovely long row of Georgian townhouses, with beautiful doors. Dublin is famous for its Georgian architecture, it was the centre of Anglo Irish society in the 18th Century. These days the residences are all used as offices and businesses. The private gardens in the squares still exist, some still private, but the biggest St Stephen's, is open to the public now and has some very well fed ducks in a pond as well as a collection of statues of famous Dubliners, mostly connected with various rebellions. Being curious, I asked about them, John, who was showing me around, very sensibly got on to his phone and googled them. Which reminds me to find out what the third castle is on the shield.
Speaking of symbols, the harp which is the state symbol has an interesting history. After most of Ireland became an independent country they wanted a national symbol and decided an image of a particular Gaelic harp was the best. Unfortunately, Guinness already had a copyright on that image. They negotiated and the government were allowed to use it as long as it faced the other way. True story!! I learnt this while touring Dublin Castle, the centre of British rule for centuries and originally a Viking stronghold. The tour was excellent: lots of information but presented in an entertaining way by highlighting the people and their personalities. Lots of rebellion stuff here as well. Basically whatever tour I did English rule, rebellion, punishment and independence featured somewhere.

More coming ....

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